The Finest Ham in the World
The tale of Jamón Ibérico ham is shrouded in enigma and allure. The age-old oak meadows of Spain, the distinguished black Ibérico pig, and the fresh mountain breeze that delicately envelops each ham during its miraculous conversion into one of the most exceptional delicacies worldwide - all contribute to this exceptional Spanish phenomenon. Without any of these elements, the formula is disrupted. Only with perseverance, expertise, and fidelity to traditional techniques can true excellence be attained.
The Pig
The lineage of the Iberico pig can be traced back thousands of years, to the time when cave dwellers adorned the caves of Spain with their art. These pigs are the original breed of Spain, domesticated over the centuries. It is only in recent centuries that the pink pigs we typically imagine have encroached on their territory. Iberico pigs are sizable, with slim legs and a long snout. Their black coat has minimal hair and they have black hooves, giving rise to the phrase "pata negra," which refers to the black hoof that remains on the ham during the curing process, distinguishing it from Serrano ham. The pigs also possess a higher fat content than other breeds, with veins of fat interlaced throughout the meat. This, coupled with a thick layer of fat on each ham, allows for extended curing, resulting in a complex, intense flavor with a touch of unparalleled sweetness. It is important to note that not all Iberico pigs are free to roam the Spanish countryside and dine on acorns. Many are fed corn and other grains and still produce excellent ham, but to achieve the ultimate ham, the pigs must be fed acorns, or "bellota." This results in Jamon Iberico de Bellota, which can cost twice as much as regular Iberico ham. Iberico pigs that are destined for Bellota status spend their final days in small family groups on the Dehesa, where they can root around for acorns, herbs, and grasses. This exercise, particularly during acorn season, results in exquisitely marbled meat, rich in natural antioxidants that are key to the extended curing process of the ham.
La dehesa et le gland (la bellota)
The story of the Iberico pig and its connection to the Jamon Iberico ham is a long and ancient one. The pigs have been domesticated for centuries and are native to Spain, with a lineage that stretches back to prehistoric times. Over time, the Iberico pig has evolved to become a large animal with a long snout and slender legs. They have black hooves, which is where the name "pata negra" comes from, and very little hair. The pigs have a lot of fat running through their muscles, which allows their hams to be cured for a long time and gives them a rich and complex flavor.
Not all Iberico pigs are equal, though. While most Jamon Iberico is made from pigs who eat normal pig feed, the ultimate ham is made from pigs that are fed acorns, or "bellota" in Spanish. These pigs are lucky enough to live in the Dehesa, a human-created ecosystem of oak trees and pastures that has been around for centuries. During the fall and winter, when the acorns are falling from the trees, the pigs are released to fatten up. Each pig can eat up to ten kilos of acorns a day, and they gain up to two pounds of fat each day. After several months of eating acorns, the pigs are ready for the "sacrifice" and the hams made from these pigs are known as Jamon Iberico de Bellota.
The Dehesa is an important part of the ecosystem of western Spain, providing firewood, cork products, and shade for plants and livestock. There has been pressure in recent years to convert the Dehesa into real estate, but the renaissance of the Jamon Iberico industry has helped to preserve this jewel of Spain for future generations.
The Curing Process
The process of 'matanza', which involves sacrificing a pig and preserving its meat for the rest of the year, has traditionally been a family activity. The family would make sausages and set aside choice cuts of meat to eat fresh, while the fatty legs were packed in sea salt and hung to dry in the cool winter air. This process still exists in some towns, and over the past century, family factories have started producing these hams in large quantities using the same methods.
The hams are left to absorb salt for a few weeks and then hung in factories with open windows, allowing the mountain air to circulate around them. Iberico hams are cured for two to four years, with Iberico Bellota hams being cured for even longer. The long curing process is possible because of the large amount of fat on each ham, and in the case of Bellota hams, the antioxidant quality of their diets.
During the curing process, the hams lose almost half their weight as the fat drips away. As winter moves to spring and summer, the salted ham begins to sweat, but because of the salt, bacteria cannot take hold. Instead, massive chemical changes occur, making the meat dryer and cooler. Iberico hams go through this cycle two to three times, resulting in a buildup of complex, volatile molecules that transform it into a flavorful delight.
With Bellota hams, the most remarkable transformation is in the fats. Through heating, cooling, salting, and drying, the fats are broken down, and because of the antioxidants in acorns and the unique curing process, saturated fats are transformed into healthy mono-unsaturated fats high in oleic acid, similar to olive oil.
The Ham
The first bite was a burst of sweet, nutty, and mildly salty flavor, followed by a complex array of flavors that depicted the story of the noble Iberico swine, the Dehesa forest pasture, the years of careful curing, and the Spanish countryside itself. The mouth-feel was enhanced by the melting away of the fat, releasing rich flavors that added to the overall experience.
The first bite was a burst of sweet, nutty, and mildly salty flavor, followed by a complex array of flavors that depicted the story of the noble Iberico swine, the Dehesa forest pasture, the years of careful curing, and the Spanish countryside itself. The mouth-feel was enhanced by the melting away of the fat, releasing rich flavors that added to the overall experience.